Fruit Eden Veganic Farm Newsletter Issue No. 2, 2012.05.07

Fruit Eden Veganic Farm Newsletter Website: https://fruiteden.wordpress.com/newsletter/

To subscribe to our Newsletter, please send email request to: fruit.eden@gmail.com

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Table of Content:

This week’s recommended organic produce

Web Info on healthy diet, spiritual growth, organic farming, environmental issues etc.

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This week’s recommended organic produce:

  • organic avocado, medium, promich, MX: $1.95 $1.65 / each (approx. 170 ~ 200g)
  • organic lettuce green leaf, CA:   $2.45 / each
  • organic yam jewel medium,CA:    $3.65/ 3 lb bag
  • organic soybean, CA: $2.20/ bag (approx. 1 lb)

Welcome to suggest next week’s organic produce.

See also: the complete price list for organic produce:https://fruiteden.wordpress.com/products/

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Web Info on healthy diet, spiritual growth, organic farming, environmental issues etc.

The 12 Most Toxic Fruits and Vegetables

[digest]Eat your fruits and vegetables! The health benefits of a diet rich in fruits and vegetables outweigh the risks of pesticide exposure. Use EWG’s Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides to reduce your exposures as much as possible, but eating conventionally-grown produce is far better than not eating fruits and vegetables at all. The Shopper’s Guide to Pesticide in Produce will help you determine which fruits and vegetables have the most pesticide residues and are the most important to buy organic. You can lower your pesticide intake substantially by avoiding the 12 most contaminated fruits and vegetables and eating the least contaminated produce.

Commodity crop corn used for animal feed and biofuels is almost all produced with genetically modified (GMO) seeds, as is some sweet corn sold for human consumption. Since GMO sweet corn is not labeled as such in US stores, EWG advises those who have concerns about GMOs to buy organic sweet corn.

Dirty Dozen (Buy these organic)

1 Apples

2 Celery

3 Strawberries

4 Peaches

5 Spinach

6 Nectarines – imported

7 Grapes – imported

8 Sweet bell peppers

9 Potatoes

10 Blueberries – domestic

11 Lettuce

12 Kale/collard greens

Clean 15 (Lowest in Pesticide)

1 Onions

2 Sweet Corn

3 Pineapples

4 Avocado

5 Asparagus

6 Sweet peas

7 Mangoes

8 Eggplant

9 Cantaloupe – domestic

10 Kiwi

11 Cabbage

12 Watermelon

13 Sweet potatoes

14 Grapefruit

15 Mushrooms

link source: http://www.ewg.org/foodnews/summary/

2. Yams

[digest]Creamy or firm when cooked, yams have an earthy, hardy taste and usually a minimal amount of sweetness. Although they are available throughout the year their season runs from October through December when they are at their best.

Health Benefits

Protection Against Cardiovascular Disease

Yams are a good source of vitamin B6. Vitamin B6 is needed by the body to break down a substance called homocysteine, which can directly damage blood vessel walls. Individuals who suffer a heart attack despite having normal or even low cholesterol levels are often found to have high levels of homocysteine. Since high homocysteine levels are signficantly associated with increased risk of heart attack and stroke, having a good supply of vitamin B6 on hand makes a great deal of sense. High intakes of vitamin B6 have also been shown to reduce the risk of heart disease.

Yams are a good source of potassium, a mineral that helps to control blood pressure. Since many people not only do not eat enough fruits and vegetables, but also consume high amounts of sodium as salt is frequently added to processed foods, they may be deficient in potassium. Low intake of potassium-rich foods, especially when coupled with a high intake of sodium, can lead to hypertension. In the Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension (DASH) study, one group ate servings of fruits and vegetables in place of snacks and sweets, and also ate low-fat dairy food. This diet delivered more potassium, magnesium and calcium. Another group ate a “usual” diet low in fruits and vegetables with a fat content like that found in the average American Diet. After eight weeks, the group that ate the enhanced diet lowered their blood pressure by an average of 5.5 points (systolic) over 3.0 points (diastolic). Dioscorin, a storage protein contained in yam, may also be of benefit to certain individuals with hypertension. Preliminary research suggests that dioscorin can inhibit angiotensin converting enzyme, which would therefore lead to increased kidney blood flow and reduced blood pressure.

A Look at Yam, Diosgenin, and Menopausal Symptoms

Many consumers have found products in the marketplace that promote wild yam or wild yam extracts as substances that can help provide a natural alternative to hormonal replacement in women who have reached the age of menopause. Many of these products are provided in the form of creams that can be topically applied. Even though the food itself is not usually promoted by natural products companies, these yam-containing products have sparked interest in the relationship between yam and menopause. Yams do contain some unique substances called steroidal saponins, and among these substances are chemicals called diosgenins. Because of similiarities between diosgenin and progesterone, questions were initially raised about the ability of our body to convert diosgenin into progesterone, but research has shown that the answer here is clearly no. Diosgenin does, however, have an impact on hormonal patterns in studies involving animals, and may be helpful in lowering risk of osteoporosis, although we don’t as yet have any human studies in this area.

Wild yam also has some history of traditional use in herbal medicine, especially Chinese herbal medicine, as a botanical that can affect organ system function. While the focus here has been on kidney function, wild yam (or Chinese yam) has also been used to support the female endocrine system. For example, there has been traditional use of this root in conjunction with lactation. We’ve only seen one high-quality, peer-reviewed research study in which women were actually given wild yam (in the form of a topical cream) to determine the impact of this plant on menopausal symptoms. Although this research showed some very limited benefits from the wild yam cream–and no side effects–none of the symptom changes were statistically significant. In summary, we’d say that there’s no research evidence to support the claim that yam has special benefits when it comes to menopause, but that more research is needed in this area because there is a clear connection between yam, diosgenin, and endocrine function that is not yet understood.

We’d also like to add some information about yam and vitamin B6. Vitamin B6 has been an especially popular supplement with respect to premenstrual syndrome (PMS) in women, especially in conjunction with the depression that can be triggered by PMS. Some companies have also advocated the use of this vitamin for menopausal symptoms. One cup of baked cubed yam contains 15.5% of the Daily Value for B6, and we rank yam as a “good” source of vitamin B6 for this reason. In research studies, however, the dose of vitamin B6 required for help with PMS depression is about 50-100 milligrams–many, many times the Daily Value level of 2.0 milligrams. So if you’re a woman, even though yam might be a food well-worth including in your meal plan in conjunction with PMS, the amount of vitamin B6 that you’d be getting from this food would be insufficient (by itself) to reach the therapeutic level shown to be helpful in research studies.

Blood Sugar and Weight Control

Yams’ complex carbohydrates and fiber deliver the goods gradually, slowing the rate at which their sugars are released and absorbed into the bloodstream. In addition, because they’re rich in fiber, yams fill you up without filling out your hips and waistline. And one more benefit, yams are a good source of manganese, a trace mineral that helps with carbohydrate metabolism and is a cofactor in a number of enzymes important in energy production and antioxidant defenses. You’ve just got to hand it to Mother Nature; when She brings forth a food, She makes sure it integrates everything needed to contribute to your health and vitality.

How to Select and Store

As noted in the Description section, oftentimes the root vegetable that is labeled in the store’s produce section as a yam is not truly a yam but is a variety of sweet potato. Therefore, if you want to buy a real yam, you should ask someone in your store’s produce department who can let you know the actual origin of the vegetable in question. As yams are not widely available in the United States, you may find that your store does not carry true yams although you are certain to find them in many Asian and African food markets.

Choose yams that are firm and do not have any cracks, bruises or soft spots. Avoid those that are displayed in the refrigerated section of the produce department since cold temperature negatively alters their taste.

Yams should be stored in a cool, dark and well-ventilated place where they will keep fresh for up to ten days. They should be stored loose and not kept in a plastic bag. Keep them out of exposure to sunlight or temperatures above 60°F (around 15°C) since this will cause them to sprout or ferment. Uncooked yams should not be kept in the refrigerator.

Research has shown some nutritional advantages to roasting over boiling when it comes to yams, so if you are deliberating over these two cooking methods, we recommend that you choose roasting. At the same time, however, when it comes to a potentially problematic substance like phytic acid (phytic acid can sometimes block absorption of desirable nutrients like zinc and iron), a wet-heat cooking method might be helpful. Because steaming is a wet-heat method that avoids submersing the food in water and risking excessive leeching of water-soluble nutrients, we recommend steaming over boiling when using wet heats (and we always stick with steaming in our own yam recipes).

link source: http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=113
3. The anti-aging superfood avocado

[digest](NaturalNews) Foods that have an incredible array of health benefits that go well beyond just their nutrient value are considered superfoods. These foods are typically loaded with a combination of critical fatty acids, anti-oxidant phytonutrients and essential amino acids. Avocados are one of the best anti-aging superfoods to consume.

Avocados are native to Central America and were a favorite food of the Aztec Indians. It is part of the flowering plant family Lauraceae which includes camphor, bay laurel and cinnamon. Avocados are considered a fruit. They are cultivated in tropical climates throughout the world including southern Florida and California.

The oldest known evidence of avocado use as a food was found in a cave in Puebla, Mexico. The dates of the writings are thought to be from around 10,000 BC. The two major types of avocados are the Hass Avocado and Florida Avocado. The Hass avocado was named after Rudolph Hass who developed an avocado farm and obtained a patent for the avocados he was growing.

Florida avocados are significantly larger than the Hass avocados but are lower in overall fat and calories. The Hass avocado is more dense in monounsaturated fatty acids than the Florida avocado. The Hass avocado averages between 18-30% fatty acids while the Florida avocado has about 3-5% fats. This equals out to the Florida avocados being about 25-50% of the total fat content found in the Hass avocados.

Avocados rich in healthy Fats & anti-Oxidants

This amazing fruit is very high in healthy oleic acid. This is a monounsaturated fat that helps increase fat metabolism. It is also rich in the powerful carotenoid anti-oxidants lutein and zeaxanthin as well as vitamin E (tocopherol).

These anti-oxidants decrease oxidative stress and allow for a healthier cellular environment. Other critical components include ionic potassium and folate. These elements are alkaline forming in the body, helping to buffer acidic wastes that accumulate within the human tissue and bloodstream.

Avocados are a terrific complement to a vegetable based meal. Most vegetables, particularly in their raw state, contain a high amount of carotenoid based anti-oxidants. Studies have shown that these anti-oxidants are lipophilic (fat-loving) and are absorbed best in the body when combined with a healthy fat such as oleic acid.

A study published in the Journal of Nutrition in March 2005 showed that adding avocados to salad increased absorption of alpha-carotene, beta-carotene and lutein 7.2, 15.3, and 5.1 times higher, respectively, than the average amount of these carotenoids absorbed when avocado-free salad was eaten.

Hass avocados have been found to be the most densely concentrated variety of the avocado fruit. They contain the highest content of lutein and zeaxanthin and other fat-soluble nutrients. Both types of avocados are terrific for the digestive system as they contain a good variety of both soluble and insoluble fibers.

Avocados are one of the best anti-aging foods that prevent wrinkles and skin aging. The D-manno-heptulose sugar that is found in avocados has been shown to improve the skin epidermis by boosting collagen formation. Avocados also contain specific amino acids and carotenoid anti-oxidants that reduce age spots, soothe inflammation and heals scars and burns.

When looking to find a ripe avocado it is best to feel the consistency rather than judge them off of their color. Ripe avocados that are still good are typically firm but have slight give to them. Any sort of mushy consistency is a warning sign that the inside meat is oxidized and rotten. Refrigerating your avocados will increase their shelf life while putting them in a bag with an old banana peel will make them ripen faster.

link source: http://www.naturalnews.com/035763_avocado_superfood_anti-aging.html
4. Farming Without Plough or Chemicals

[digest]Nature does not plough; she employs the earthworm and soil bacteria, together with deeply penetrating roots, to do her work.

Nature does not supply water-soluble minerals to the soil; she ensures an automatic and ample application of organic matter which, in the process of decay, produces organic acids to act upon soil minerals and so make them capable of absorption by plant roots. Because we have failed to follow the example of nature we find that the soil in our care has apparently become incapable of providing sufficient good food to sustain our population in health. Why has the soil that was provided for our sustenance now become what the chemists call ‘deficient’ — unequal to the task for which it was intended? Or has it?

In modern farming, both crop production and livestock feeding, we have been concerned with the provision of prepared nutrients imported to the farm, instead of making full use of the complete provisions of nature. The result is that we have burdened farming with the colossal cost of chemical fertilizers, sprays, insecticides, vaccines and medicines, while nature quietly continues to beat us, in the matter of both abundant production and healthy crops and animals, at no cost.

The earth is the permanent possessor of all things contained therein and which grow therefrom; they are loaned to the human and animal kingdom for bodily sustenance for the duration of life, but nature decreed that they shall, after use, be returned to the earth. No plant, animal or human being can claim the right of destruction, or of permanent possession, of any of the ingredients of its food or physical body. They must be returned to the earth to sustain new life and to ensure the continuation of the universe when life, for us, is ended. We are but the tenants of life, having on loan the physical from the earth and the spiritual from God. What happens to our spiritual being and its inspiration remains to be discovered after we lay down the physical life. But our duties regarding the physical body and its means of natural sustenance are clear to all. It must be returned, together with all organic matter derived from the earth, back to the earth.

Problems of so-called soil deficiencies — certainly as far as the main elements are concerned — have only arisen with the increasing failure to acknowledge and act upon this law. Without adequate decaying organic matter to release, in the process of its decay, the otherwise non-available phosphates, potash and nitrogen, man has thought it necessary to transport these elements from sources of concentrated supply and, by treatment with chemicals, render them water soluble. In powder form these water-soluble elements are then applied, to upset the natural balance of the soil, to impregnate the water particles of the soil with concentrations far in excess of the optimum natural supply. Upon these the plant draws, instead of utilizing the more slowly available organic elements of the humus.

Phosphate deficiency is one of the outstanding fallacies of science (in soil as distinct from certain types of solid rock). There is no such thing; or at least none that science can measure. All that the soil analyst can measure is availability. When the soil analyst tells us a field is suffering from phosphate deficiency he merely means that insufficient phosphate is available; in other words, that the soil does not contain enough organic matter to produce the necessary mineral-releasing acids in the soil. A soil only becomes ‘deficient’ when there is insufficient decaying organic matter upon it to release the mineral nutrients already present in an unavailable form, and gather them from the air and falling rain.

The solution, therefore, to all apparent deficiencies, is adequate organic matter in the right place.

Experience has shown me that the right place for organic matter is on or very near the surface of the soil. That seems to be one of the reasons for the success of eliminating the plough. Whether we have applied it or not, the soil surface is usually covered with organic matter: straw-stubble, weeds, leaves and numerous minute decaying bodies and the microscopic excreta of millions of living creatures. If we plough we put this down, not only beyond the reach of most domestic plant roots, where incidentally weed seeds will be preserved, to germinate next time we plough and bring them to the surface, but at a depth which will catch moisture from above and below and withhold it from the crop which grows in the top soil.

Nature accumulates organic matter on the surface, year by year, and what she needs below the surface she transports by means of earthworms and other soil organisms.

That great gardener, F. C. King, following Sir Albert Howard’s imitation of nature’s way of manuring by compost, perceived also that nature does not dig, and, in consequence, does not need to spray to keep her crops free from disease and parasite. He proceeded to sow his seeds in undug soil, which was abundantly supplied with organic matter. ‘It is not the richness of the soil that confers immunity on plants, but rather the unity which prevails within the soil, whenever this remains undisturbed,’ he said. He believes that digging damages fungi in the soil. It is reasonable to assume that the disturbance of soil severs the threads of mycelium, which convey nutriment from the humus of the soil to the rootlets of the plant — the process known as mycorrhizal association which Dr. M. C. Rayner and Sir Albert Howard have shown to be a vital necessity to the health of certainly over 80 per cent and probably all of our domestic crops. My farming experience has shown me that there is an intricate and carefully balanced inter-relation of activity in the soil, which should never be disturbed, provided we can supply organic material necessary to the maintenance of this activity. I believe that if one part of the process is interrupted or prevented there is no substitute but only partial emergency measures. The process remains incomplete and the crop suffers accordingly.

Now that I have seen the remarkable crops resulting from land that has been unploughed for six years, in different fields, I can support every word of criticism which the American, Edward Faulkner, had for the plough in his book Plowman’s Folly. When I first tried to farm without the plough I was not overwhelmed with success. I could not get a tilth fine enough to satisfy my orthodox conception of a good seed-bed. The rubbish on the surface worried me too much and I succumbed to the temptation to plough it in. I felt also that ploughing was essential in order to bring some moisture to the parched surface. The surface soil always dried out so quickly that it was often necessary to bring up the moisture from below during a dry time, before it was possible to produce a seed bed moist enough to take seed and enable it to grow away quickly from the weeds.

I was afraid that my crops would be smothered by weeds if I did not plough them under out of sight for another year; little realizing that at the same time I was bringing up last year’s seeds, well preserved and in an ideal condition for immediate germination and quick growth.

So I continued to plough, until it occurred to me that when my land contained sufficient organic matter some of my earlier failures would be explained. For without adequate organic matter the soil was not in a natural condition to operate the simple processes of nature. By starving the soil of organic matter and above all by transferring what organic matter there was from the surface to a site six to eight inches below the surface, I was placing beyond the reach of the crop all its nutriment and its means of conserving the moisture for root growth. I suddenly realized why weeds always grow rapidly and vigorously during the most disastrous drought, while the domestic crop shrivels and dies. Many weeds are deeper rooting than our cultivated crops, so that where land is ploughed they have continuous call on the decaying organic matter which is lying out of reach of the cultivated crop but at the optimum level for the sustenance of the weeds. The weeds, therefore, have ample moisture at their root level to keep them in continuous growth regardless of external extremes of weather and, of course, they can laugh heartily at the wretched wheat or cabbage struggling miserably in the dried-out top soil, with only the artificial additions to stimulate growth plus whatever moisture may, from time to time, fall from the sky.

I saw then why uncultivated crops rarely suffer from drought; why the forests, hedgerows and roadside weeds flourish, regardless of weather conditions, while our crops in cultivated fields grow in stops and starts, according to the weather, and in many cases don’t grow at all unless we provide artificial stimulants. It becomes clear too how we may grow vigorous healthy crops by imitating nature and leaving the soil, as far as possible, undisturbed except on the very surface; allowing the plant to feed at the breast of nature instead of periodically severing the child from the breast and violently forcing upon it our bottle of poisonous chemicals.

So I determined, now that my soil contained more organic matter, to try again and, from a number of fields, I rested the plough. Somewhat diffidently and with apprehension — for I was still afraid of the weeds and the possible failure of the sown seeds to germinate in the rough and dry seed-bed — I wrote, in the 1948 spring number of The Farmer, about crops sown without ploughing in the previous year:

‘Each field was given a good churning up with the cultivator and afterwards cut up as well as could be with the disc harrow. The risk was that not all the weed seeds were germinated by the time the crop was sown as there was still no rain. The crops were sown in a dry lumpy seed-bed, yet, in spite of this, excepting one piece of wheat, they all look well, though the unploughed fields are showing more than their fair quota of weeds. In the case of the oats and vetches, which are to be cut for silage in May, this does not matter for the weed will provide bulky green food, giving a variety of valuable herbs to the silage, and they will be cut before there is any chance of the seeds falling.

‘But the resulting crops astounded me and here is their history.

‘The third week of September I sowed Pilot seed wheat in a field which had grown moderate crops of wheat the two previous years. This is bad farming practice of course, but I was curious to see what a third crop of wheat would do. The field had not been ploughed for thirteen months. The seed was sown in a rough knobbly seed-bed in a covering of dead and dying weeds churned up with a mixture of wheat straw stubble by the disc harrow. The tilth was rough enough to block the drill at times, but we scrambled our way through it and I prayed that rain would come to give the wheat a good start. For three weeks there was no rain and the weeds flourished. Throughout the winter it looked as though the crop would have to be resown in the spring. But when spring came the weeds were diminishing and the wheat shot forward. Before the wheat was in ear it was evident that the weeds had disappeared and the wheat was clearly one of the heaviest crops I had grown on the farm, for I had never seen such a strong and vigorous growth, without manuring of any kind, and after two previous straw crops.

‘Nature had attended to the manuring by the natural death of the weeds; for the weed seeds remaining ungerminated on the surface had obviously come to maturity during the late autumn and had died off during the winter, and the acids of decay had released available minerals to provide nutriment for the flourishing wheat roots. The long dry spring and the drought of early summer left the wheat unaffected. Vigorous growth continued in consequence of the moisture and organic nutriment held at the root level of the plant by the natural sponge of decaying organic matter.’

The wheat yielded 39-1/2 cwt. an acre compared with 27 cwt. an acre for the first crop and 20 cwt. an acre for the second crop.

‘Equally successful was a crop of oats and vetches, also sown on land that had not been ploughed for two years previously. So rapid was the growth of this crop that though we started harvesting it for silage at the optimum stage of growth, about two feet high, before we could finish the field it was over six feet high in parts and provided a tremendous tonnage of green food per acre.

‘Encouraged by the success of the wheat and silage crop, I sowed eight acres of kale. Though one might expect a root crop to produce less spectacular results without what I have formerly assumed was the ‘aid’ of the plough, the results were even more encouraging than my previous ventures. The most remarkable thing was the almost complete absence of weeds in a field that was, at the outset of surface tillage methods, extremely dirty following three corn crops. The field was well disced before seeding and thistles were hoed by hand. A dressing of sewage sludge was worked in and the field received no further cultivation, not even horse hoeing or hand hoeing, other than two days work for three men cutting out a few persistent thistles.

‘Visitors found it difficult to believe that we had not horse or tractor hoed up and down the rows continuously throughout the growing stages of the crop. For they had seen no crop sown on ploughed land, even with continuous cleaning, that had achieved such freedom from weeds.’

A Comparison of Ploughed and Unploughed Land

A remarkable example of the harmfulness of the plough was accidentally provided when I ploughed an old pasture. The whole field was ploughed with the exception of one corner which had been scattered with straw and upon which grazing cattle had deposited some dung two years previously. The looseness of the top soil and the debris on the surface made the plough ineffective in this corner and the soil was merely pushed aside, to be broken down later by the disc harrow. After being worked the whole field was sown to turnips during early July. Over most of the field, in spite of continuous wet weather, the young turnips were, for ten days since they showed two leaves above ground, at a standstill, indicating that something below the surface was retarding growth. But the corner that was not ploughed and which had a supply of organic matter worked into the surface never ceased to grow, and the plants were at least three times as big as those in the rest of the field. Furthermore, unlike the unploughed kale field, the weeds in the ploughed turnip field got out of control. All the weed seeds of a generation past, since the field was last ploughed, germinated promptly on arrival at the surface of the soil and proceeded to thrust their roots down to the decaying turf, which lay below the reach of the turnips.

This solved for me a problem upon which I had previously not had the courage to risk a trial; I formerly believed that though one might dispense with the plough on stubble and following potatoes or roots, it would nevertheless be necessary to plough up old pastures and temporary leys on first breaking them up. Now, once more, nature thrust this demonstration under my nose and urged me to go the whole hog. Nature permits no half measures and she clearly indicated that, if I am to farm properly, I must imitate her ways as completely as possible so far as is within my ability to perceive them. This means that no land need be ploughed if there is sufficient organic matter available to enable the natural cultivation of earthworms and other organisms to prepare and make friable the soil and ease the preparation of a seed-bed with disc harrows only.

link source: http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/turner/turner4.html

5. Stock-free organic farming

[digest]1 Why vegan-organics?

1.1 Also called stock-free farming, vegan-organics is a system which avoids all artificial chemical products (synthetic fertiliser, pesticides, growth regulators), genetically modified organisms, animal manures and slaughterhouse by-products (blood, fish meal, bone meal, etc).

1.2 To preserve soil fertility, vegan-organic growers insist on green manures, composts made of plant-based materials, mulches made from plant-based materials, and every other long-term method which is ecologically viable and which does not rely on any form of animal exploitation.

1.3 Generally it is inspired by principles which favour biodiversity, reduced working of the soil, and the use of perennial and native plants. The aim of increasing energy efficiency while reducing environmental impact is reflected in the importance of buying and selling produce locally and thus reducing the use of machinery for transport.

1.4 Prevention is the cornerstone of the fight against competing organisms (‘pests’). The idea is to seek an equilibrium between cultivated and wild areas, by developing favourable habitats for natural predators, such as hedges for wind-breaks and ponds. So competing organisms are viewed as indicators and not as enemies that should be fought. The system focuses explicitly on tolerance and accepts as a first principle that part of the harvest goes to nature. Repellents may nevertheless in some circumstances be used: in the Stockfree Organic Standards, their use is restriced to cases of economic necessity.

1.5 The vegan-organic system is therefore not completely animal-free!. On the contrary, by nourishing the soil and reducing the amount it is worked, an active fauna enriches and improves the soil: above all the earthworm.

1.6 The Stockfree Organic Standards, produced by VOT [the Vegan Organic Trust], are the definitive guide to all aspects of vegan-organic growing. These apply strictly only to those who wish to become registered organic growers, while others may use them as a guide. Why vegan-organic?

2 Fertility

2.1 Lack of animal manure

Some farms have no nearby source of sufficient manure and so opt for a plant-based alternative. If the organic standards were more restrictive and only allowed the use of manure from organic farms, then there would be an even greater scarcity of suitable manure; yet this would encourage the development of plant-based alternatives.

2.2 Organic from start to finish

Many organic farms use manure from non-organic farms. Although generally composted, traces of hormones, antibiotics, genetically modified organisms or other contaminants could still be present. As for fertilisers originating in abattoirs, many growers are uncomfortable with their use, and some scientists have reservations as to the possible transmission of prions (the agent in the disease BSE and its human form, vCJD) when using these fertilisers (eg by inhalation).

2.3 No more dependence on conventional agriculture

Whether it is the manure from conventional dairy farmers, or the powdered feathers from the industrial-scale chicken farmers, the use of these fertilisers seems to legitimise and support conventional farming.

2.4 Increased self-sufficiency in fertilisers

Many farms try to minimise inputs by using above all green manures and compost which they make themselves.

2.5 Eliminate intermediaries

Standard organic fertilisers rely on the transformation of plants into compost by the manure produced by animals. At each stage there are nevertheless losses, from volatilisation (ammoniacal nitrogen), from leaching, or from the energy required for the biological functions of the animal. Since all manure ultimately comes from plants (apart from mineral fertilisers) some prefer to shorten the chain by eliminating the stage of transformation by animals, instead composting the plants directly. In the case of green manures, mulching and chipped branch wood (also known as ramal), even the stage of composting itself is eliminated.

2.6 Aiming for efficiency rather than for productivity

Productivity is a measure of the yield per hectare, which does not take into account the energy required to produce and transport the inputs. The environmental impact of farming depends on an assessment of the total energy required to produce a given quantity of food.

3 Ethical and health

3.1 Vegetarians and vegans

Those who choose not to eat animal products also would like to choose to have their food grown in a way which does not rely on the farming of animals.

3.2 Health concerns

Vegan-organic methods avoid the hazards associated with food production involving animal wastes, aggressive chemicals, genetic engineering and other environmentally damaging systems, so will be of interest to all those concerned with sustainable healthy living whether or not they are vegan or vegetarian.

4 Environment

4.1 Reduce the environmental impact

The use of alternatives to animal manure (compost, green manures, mulching and chipped branch wood) improves the soil and avoids the necessity of raising animals. Raising animals demands high inputs in terms of water, fodder and land, and so leads towards monoculture and the use of heavy machinery and thus to the degradation of the soil (compaction, erosion, loss of biodiversity, and leaching). Land liberated from grazing and fodder production could be used to produce renewable fuels, organic soil improvers, natural fibres and construction materials, thus reducing dependence on fossil fuels and clear-felling of forests.

4.2 Nature as model

Biodiversity and the use of decomposing plant matter to feed new plants are the very basis of natural growth. The best example is the forest where fertility comes from the accumulation of plants on the surface, without working the soil and (almost) without the addition of animal manure.

5 World peace and justice

5.1 Fighting world hunger

Worldwide, 38% of total grain production is fed to animals. Developed nations import vast quantities of grain to feed animals, often from very poor countries where people do not have enough to eat. So avoiding animal products favours the economical use of land, which can be used directly for growing food to feed people.

5.2 World peace and environmental justice

If agriculture continues its present course across the planet, it is predicted that there will be wars over water resources, conflict over land rights, farmers increasingly dispossessed and marginalised, a widening of the gap between affluent and poor, increasing intensification of animal farming, depletion of the quality of soils, damage to the oceans, devastation of rain forests and many other negative factors. Vegan-organics points a way out of these problems. It is not just an alternative eco-friendly agricultural method, it is an holistic system, marrying ethics and pragmatic solutions for tackling world hunger, animal exploitation and environmental degradation; it spells hope for the lessening of conflict and for making a better world…

Extract from the Vegan Organic Network web-site at http://www.veganorganic.net/

link source: https://worldnewsforlife.wordpress.com/features/stock-free-organic-farming/

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Fruit Eden Veganic Farm Newsletter Issue No. 1

Fruit Eden Veganic Farm Newsletter Issue No. 1, 2012.04.30

Fruit Eden Veganic Farm Newsletter Website: https://fruiteden.wordpress.com/newsletter/
To subscribe to our Newsletter, please send email request to: fruit.eden@gmail.com

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Table of Content:

This week’s recommended organic produce

Fruit Eden Veganic Farm News

Web Info on healthy diet, spiritual growth, organic farming, environmental issues etc.

  1. How to prepare broccoli to retain its nutritional value
  2. Beginner’s Guide to Composting
  3. Easy Guide to Vegan Organic Fertilizers
  4. Stockfree Farming Gains Momentum
  5. 10 Good Reasons Why Canadians Are Going Organic!

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This week’s recommended organic produce:

  • organic apple gala, BC:    $5.50 / 3 lb bag
  • organic banana, unlimited, MX: $1.30 / bag (approx. 1 pound)
  • organic strawberries, Driscoll, MX: $6.60 $6.00 / 1 lb clamshell
  • organic avocado, medium, promich, MX: $1.95 $1.65 / each (approx. 170 ~ 200g)
  • organic broccoli, CA: $2.50 / bunch (2 ~ 3 pieces, around 1 pound 4 ounce)
  • organic cauliflower,CA: $4.35 / each (approx. 2 pound or more)
  • organic lettuce green leaf, CA: $2.45 / each
  • organic mushroom white button,medium, BC: $5.00 $4.50 / bag (approx. 1 pound)
  • organic potato yellow,PEI:   $7.50 / bag (approx. 5 pound)
  • organic salad herb blend, CA: $4.65 / 5 oz clamshell
  • organic squash zucchini, MX:$2.55 / bag (approx. 1 pound)
  • organic tomato roma, MX: $2.65 / bag (approx. 1 pound)
  • organic yam jewel medium,CA:    $3.65/ 3 lb bag
  • organic soybean, CA: $2.20/ 1bag (approx. 1 pound)

See also: the complete price list for organic produce:https://fruiteden.wordpress.com/products/

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Fruit Eden Veganic Farm News

  • Year 2012 is the second growing season on the rented farmland in Langley. The ditch built last spring works well this spring, make it feasible to sow the seeds earlier than last year. So far, we are sowing the seeds of snow pea, shelling pea, carrot, potato, green mustard, spinach, radish etc.
  • The photos on Year 2011 growing season has been uploaded to the web site, here is the link.

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Web Info on healthy diet, organic farming, environmental issues etc.

1. How to prepare broccoli to retain its nutritional value
[digest]It comes of no surprise that, like all of the World’s Healthiest Foods, broccoli has many different way of supporting our health! What is surprising is that how it is prepared can add even greater nutritional value to this already highly nutritious and popular vegetable.

Preparation Makes a Difference

Did you know that cutting the florets into smaller pieces and the stems into thin slices and letting them sit for 5 to 6 minutes before cooking will enhance their cancer protective properties? Cutting broccoli into smaller pieces breaks the cells and activates an enzyme called myrosinase. The myrosinase converts some of the sulfur-containing chemicals found in broccoli (call glucosinolates) into other sulfur containing chemicals (called isothiocyanates) which research has shown to contain cancer preventive properties not found in the glucosinolates . Studies have actually pinpointed specific mechanisms, like changes in cellular genetic processes, which are involved in increasing cancer protection.

Since myrosinase is specifically activated by ascorbic acid (vitamin C), sprinkling your sliced broccoli with a little lemon juice, an excellent source of vitamin C, before letting it sit may also help increase myrosinase activity. Once broccoli is heated, even if it is just lightly steamed, the myrosinase enzyme will become inactivated. For this reason, the slicing of broccoli 5-6 minutes before steaming will enable the enzyme to go to work and convert some of the sulfur-containing compounds prior to steaming.

Increase Assimilation of Nutrients

This may raise the question of whether it would not be preferable to let the broccoli sit and eat it raw allowing the enzymes to continue functioning. While, of course, this is an option, we prefer to recommend slightly cooking broccoli. Light cooking tends to soften fibrous materials aiding digestion and increasing the potential assimilation of nutrients.

One study has shown that although there may be more vitamin C in a stalk or florets of raw broccoli, we absorb the vitamin C a little better once the broccoli has been steamed or boiled. In a carefully controlled study, the availability of vitamin C from raw broccoli was compared to the availability from cooked broccoli, orange sections and orange juice. All foods forms of vitamin C showed equal bioavailability, except for the vitamin C from raw broccoli, which was less well absorbed.

Lightly Cooked

Of key importance is the definition of “lightly cooked”. Lightly cooked broccoli has a bright green color and has not been steamed or boiled for more than 3-5 minutes. Overcooking any vegetable will decrease its nutritional value.

Broccoli and Your Thyroid

The same cancer-preventing compounds that slicing helps activate in broccoli (isothiocyanates) may decrease thyroid function under certain circumstances. The jury is still out, however, on exactly how this process works, or how problematic it is for everyday eating. However, to err on the safe side, individuals with pre-existing and untreated thyroid conditions might want to avoid eating broccoli. The consumption of steamed broccoli that has not been cut would logically lower isothiocyanate intake, but even in this case, intestinal bacteria could produce the isothiocyanates once the steamed broccoli reached their area of the intestine.

We recommend that individuals with thyroid problems talk with their healthcare providers about the best way to proceed in this circumstance. For all individuals with healthy thyroid function (except those allergic to broccoli, of course) we recommend incorporating this magnificent food into your healthy eating plan, raw or steamed!

link source: http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=george&dbid=64

2. Beginner’s Guide to Composting
[digest]Compost is any gardener’s best friend. For new veganic gardeners though, it is not only your best friend, but the building block from which your vegan garden will grow. As you build your own compost pile, bin, or tumbler, you’ll learn to love this nutrient-rich pile of possibility. The soil and humus that are created from your scraps do more than just reduce unnecessary additions to the landfill. They are also essential to revitalizing your garden and providing your household and garden plants with the nutrients they need to thrive.

Thankfully, building your own basic compost pile is simple to do. All you need is green (nitrogen-rich) and brown (carbon-rich) material from your yard waste and household food scraps, and a good place to put it. I’ll cover the different methods of composting in a later post but for now, no matter what techniques you use, it’s hard to misstep. The speed with which your compost breaks down, the efficiency of maintaining your compost pile (to keep the smell and bugs down), and the potency of the nutrient-rich humus your compost creates is a slightly different story. Thus, all of the techniques and tips contained in this article will speed up the process, preserve the nutrients in the compost, encourage natural worm populations, and help keep your pile smelling like a bed full of, well… good earth.

1. Balanced and Bountiful

If you heaped all your table scraps and yard waste in one big pile and let it sit for long enough, you would eventually have some good soil/humus to work with and use in your garden/plants/lawn treatment.

If you want to have GREAT soil/humus, and cut down on smell and compost time then you might need to do a little math: 30:1 Carbon to Nitrogen. Too much green (nitrogen) and your compost will become green, slimy and probably smelly. Too much brown (carbon) and you’re going to get just that, a pile of brown twigs and plant stalks that take forever to break down. You don’t need to measure how much of each type you’re putting in your pile, but if you simply eye ball it, you can add more of one or the other when you feel like your compost is out of balance.

What you can put in your compost pile:

Brown (Carbon):

• Dry leaves
• Hay & straw
• Dried grass
• Cornstalks, cobs and other plant stems (Chopped finely or shredded)
• Sawdust (See caution section below)*
• Bits of wood and pruning
• Wood Ash (Completely cooled)
• Tea bags
• Peat Moss
• Coffee filters
• Stems
• Pine needles (In small quantities, as they are very acidic)

Green (Nitrogen):

• Fresh (green) grass clippings
• Flowers and cuttings
• Weeds (without seeds and chopped if needed to prevent re-growth)
• Green plant cuttings
• Leftover fruits and veggies from the garden
• Vegetable & fruit peelings
• Coffee grounds
• Young hedge trimmings
• Seaweed and kelp

Ingredients to avoid:

– Animal products: Cheese, meat, eggs etc. Animal products can attract other animals, smell unpleasantly and introduce disease and unwanted bacteria into your compost pile.
– Weeds that easily spread: If you’re having a hard time keeping certain weeds out of your garden, it’s probably best not to put them in the compost. The heat of a good compost pile can kill some weeds, but be careful which ones you choose to put in the pile.
– Diseased plants: If you didn’t want it in your garden, than you don’t want to add it to the compost, which will eventually be used in the garden.
– Shredded paper scraps: Unless you know that they are free from harmful chemicals, it’s best not to put paper in the compost due to the inks and other chemicals they contain. Recycling is a safer way to go.
– Dog or cat poop: It’s smelly, and you run the risk of adding diseases or unwanted bacteria to your compost.

* Sawdust/Wood shavings, chips and bark – It’s fine to add some wood chips and sawdust to your compost, although these items do take longer to break down, so add these items sparingly. Wood has a high carbon content so it takes a long time to break down and can overwhelm a compost pile. Sawdust or small chips are best layered lightly over fresh compost scraps to cut down on smells and dissuade flying critters. Sawdust and wood chips can also be helpful when your pile is overwhelmed with green material, but it should be used in moderation. Never use black walnut sawdust, which retards or destroys plant growth.

2. Size Matters

If you’re throwing half a watermelon rind or large twigs and branches into the compost pile, you’re going to be waiting a long time before you can use your new soil. If you can afford to purchase a shredder for woody items it will help solve these carbon-based woes, but if not, simply chopping up the larger pieces before adding them to the pile will help. Pruning shears work well on harder items. Nitrogen-rich materials such as vegetable waste and green pruning(s) can also be shredded, but it is less important than with carbon-rich material. The more you shred or chop the larger/harder items going into your compost, the easier it will be for the beneficial microbes in your compost to break them down and keep moisture even throughout the pile.

3. A Breath of Fresh Air

If you want your compost to break down quickly then it needs to breathe. This is because many of the good bacteria that help break down your household/yard waste need air to survive. You can usually tell that the oxygen level has dropped in your compost pile when the temperature of the pile drops (the core heat emanating from it should be between 120-160 degrees F.) This usually starts to happen around every two weeks, which makes every two weeks a good time to flip the compost. Even if you don’t have time to do a full flip, prodding the compost pile with a garden fork, stick, or metal rod will go a long way towards aerating the pile and speeding up the process.

When you turn the compost pile, pull material from the outer edges into the middle of the heap and break up any large clumps that may have formed. If any part of the pile is dry, moisten it as you go, but be careful of over-watering (covered in the next tip.)

There are also ways to create “No-Turn” piles such as building a tumbler or simply building your compost pile to circulate air (although I recommend flipping if you’re using a good amount of green material.)

Building a pile that breathes on its own:

The secret is to mix in enough coarse material, like straw, when building the compost pile. The compost will develop as fast as if you were flipping it regularly. Lay straw/hay or twigs first, at least a few inches deep. This allows for drainage and helps aerate the pile (just like flipping). Add compost materials in layers, alternating moist and dry, and ta-da! you’ve got a no-turn pile.

4. Moisture [More or Less a Question of Content]

Keeping your compost pile moist is one of the keys to keeping it active and decomposing at a good speed. On average, you want about 50-60% moisture content. What does that mean? You can eye ball it, but if you’re not afraid of a little dirt, grab a handful of compost (from the middle of the pile – the bits that are well on their way to dirt) and squeeze it.

– No water comes out and it crumbles apart when you open your hand: The compost is too dry.
– Water comes out: The compost is too wet.
– No water comes out, but the compost stays compact: Perfect!

Basically, you want your compost lightly moistened, but water shouldn’t be running off it and it shouldn’t be dry enough to notice. If you’re in a dry area you may need to spray a bit of water on the pile from time to time. If you’re in a rainy area, covering the top of the pile with a tarp or other sort of covering will protect it from getting too soggy.

5. Power in Numbers

If you only have space for one pile, then one is better then none, but if you have the space to create two or three smaller piles, go for it. Every time you add new material to your compost pile you’re setting your “ready” date back. Starting a new pile once you have enough material to create a good source of heat and compost (approximately 3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet) allows you to move forward faster. The longer your compost takes to break down, the more nutrients that will be lost into the soil below the pile

6. Compost Activators: Do you need them?

While some garden stores may try to sell you “compost activators,” most likely you’ve got all the good microbes and fungi you need clinging to your garden/yard waste already. If your compost doesn’t have the ‘oomph’ you’d like it to, you can spray EM-1 solution on your pile, or add alfalfa meal and/or comfrey leaves to the pile to super-charge the contents.

Comfrey leaves are probably your cheapest and easiest, simplest bet. All you need is a bit of spare ground, or better yet, a garden bed you’re not using. Comfrey’s deep roots absorb nutrients from below the topsoil (subsoil), which is then transferred to and stored in the leaves. As this plant grows, the leaves and the soil they are grown in become nitrogen-rich, which is part of the reason growing this plant right in your garden can be a great idea.

It’s super easy to grow, and once the leaves are big enough you can use them for a covering for your compost or to make a beautiful compost tea (the leaves can irritate the skin so wear gloves when you’re picking them).

Conclusion:
When your compost is ready, you should be able to see the difference between the dark, earthy, sweet soil it has become and the depleted soil from your garden. You’ll learn to love this beautiful humus, teeming with life and potential, and treasure it for the rich earth it has become. Whether you choose to use your compost to build the soil in your garden, fertilize new or existing pants, top dress your lawn, make a compost tea, lay it around trees and shrubs, on house plants or to create your own potting mix, I’m sure you’ll have a hard time ever throwing an apple peel or fall leaves in the garbage again!

link source: http://gentleworld.org/beginners-guide-to-organic-composting/

3. Easy Guide to Vegan Organic Fertilizers
[digest]If you’re new to veganic gardening and searching for alternatives to blood, bone and other so-called “organic” fertilizers, then this list of eco-friendly soil amendments will strengthen and support your green thumb.

Making or purchasing a nutrient-rich mix of vegan organic fertilizers to help your garden thrive is a simple and sustainable way to enrich your soil without compromising your ethics.

Low cost vegan organic fertilizers

These stock-free fertilizer alternatives are cheaper than buying a pre-made mix, but do require an initial investment.
Green Manures, Nitrogen-fixing crops

You might have to spend a small amount of money to get this crop growing, but it’s worth the reasonable investment. Fast-growing plants, such as wheat, oats, rye, vetch, or clover, can be grown as green manure crops before your standard planting, and then tilled into the garden as you ready the beds. Green manure crops absorb and use nutrients from the soil that might otherwise be lost through leaching, then return the nutrients into the soil when they are tilled under. The root system of cover crops also helps improve the soil structure and prevent erosion. Vetch, peas, broad beans (fava beans), and crimson clover are known as nitrogen-fixing crops because they are particularly good at bringing this nutrient back into the soil when they are tilled into the bed. Adding cover crops to your garden during fall and winter will also help reduce weed growth.
Alfalfa meal, Flax Seed Meal, Cottonseed Meal and Soya Meal

All excellent sources of nitrogen.
Epsom Salts

An excellent source of magnesium.
Seaweed (fresh, liquid or meal)

Often used for its trace elements, seaweed is best when harvested fresh from the sea (as opposed to washed up and sitting on beaches.) Some veganic gardeners use bulk kelp meal or spirulina instead (which are sources of potassium and trace minerals).

EM or other Beneficial Micro Organisms

Beneficial micro organisms work harmoniously with plants to increase nutrient availability in the soil, root formation and insect resistance.

Free vegan organic fertilizer

These are my favorite fertilizers because you can create them in your own backyard! I try to use a mix of these soil amendments first, and then add additional veganic ingredients such as wood ash, or spirulina if needed.

Compost

Every good gardener has a great compost pile (if they have the space.) If you’re just beginning, I’ve got a good guide to compost to help you get the most out of your kitchen/yard scraps. A good compost pile is full of wonderful nutrients, nitrogen and beneficial microorganisms to keep your garden going strong. Not only is making your own compost pile easy to do and a free way to feed your garden, it also encourages a strong worm population which is wonderful for your plants.

Vermiculture or Vermicastings (Worm Castings)

Worm castings improve the soil structure and increase fertility. They can be added to your garden without purchasing them from a store (which is obviously harmful to the worms being cultivated for the product), by simply providing the right environment for the worms to thrive in. Re-establishing the natural worm populations in your garden is as easy as providing a cool, damp and dark environment with plenty of nutrients for them to enjoy (compost pile/hay mulch.) If you’re interested in increasing your worm population, this link will help you get started.

Hay Mulches

Mulching is simply covering the ground with a thick layer of organic material. Mulching will not only feed the soil as it breaks down, but will also suppress weeds and encourage worms in your garden. You can do this while plants are growing (as long as you don’t overwhelm the plants) or you can apply mulch when you’re shutting down your garden for the winter.
Compost Teas

You can make wonderful liquid fertilizers with comfrey or nettles and other composting plants. These fertilizers are nitrogen rich, can often be created for free, and your garden will love them. Here are some directions on how to make your own nettle or comfrey compost tea.

Vegan organic fertilizers to use sparingly:

While all of the fertilizers below are stock-free and valuable, they are obtained through mining, so we use them very sparingly or not at all. They are valuable soil amendments though, so if there is a particular deficiency in your soil, which these products will rectify, attempt to use them in small quantities.

You’ll also notice that a number of the ready-made mixes contain some of the ingredients listed below. So if you do choose to purchase a prepackaged mix, make sure to use it sparingly and supplement with compost and other sustainable soil amendments.
Lime

A source of calcium and magnesium, it is also used to help break up heavy clay soil. Calcium is essential for strong plant growth and aids in the intake of other nutrients. Lime can be used to raise the pH level, if your crop requires this.
Gypsum (hydrated calcium sulfate)

Gypsum adds calcium to the soil without raising the pH.
Dolomite

A finely ground rock dust and prized source of calcium and magnesium.
Rock Phosphate

Prized for its high phosphorus content, the primary mineral in phosphate rock is apatite.
Rock Dusts (or Stonemeal)

Containing a blend of different powdered rocks, when mixed with the soil its mineral content is slowly released, revitalizing overworked soils and stimulating microbial activity.
Green Sand

Used as a soil amendment and fertilizer, it has the consistency of sand but 10 times the moisture absorption. Green Sand is mined from deposits of minerals that were originally part of the ocean floor. It is a natural source of potash, along with iron, magnesium, silica and as many as 30 other trace minerals. It may also be used to loosen heavy, clay soils.
Rock Potash/Potassium

Potassium enhances flower and fruit production and helps harden up foliage, making it less susceptible to disease. Rock potash is very slow-acting (it may take years to fully release its minerals). Because the potash is released gradually as the mineral weathers, it is usually used when preparing the soil for planting.
Wood ash

Contains some potassium, phosphate and trace amounts of micro-nutrients such as iron, manganese, boron, copper and zinc. It can have an alkalizing effect on the soil, which many plants do not like, so use it sparingly.

link source: http://gentleworld.org/easy-guide-to-vegan-organic-fertilizers/

4. Stockfree Farming Gains Momentum
[digest]The Vegan-Organic Network is setting up educational centres across the UK to demonstrate to growers, farmers and the general public the benefits and methods of stockfree’ organic cultivation.

Clean, green and cruelty-free’ are the bywords of growers around the world who are using this approach, also known as vegan organics. It excludes artificial chemicals, genetically modified material, animal products and livestock manures. Instead, soil fertility is maintained with the use of plant-based green manures, mulching, composting and crop rotation.
Many stockfree growers are members of the Vegan-Organic Network. Founded in 1996 as a voluntary group, it has been registered as an educational charity for a decade. Its work is based on sound ecological principles, compassion and social justice.

‘A number of growers have already expressed interest in the plans for the educational centres,’ says trustee Peter White. At the venues, individual farms and holdings will arrange displays that offer information on techniques, as well as organising open days’ and holding events. There are also plans to employ a development worker to co-ordinate the network of centres, which represents a big step forward for the charity.

Around 70 per cent of UK land is used for grazing or to grow animal fodder. The charity believe this could be used more efficiently by growing plant foods. They also point out that developed nations import large quantities of animal feed from countries where people are going hungry. Stockfree organics, on the other hand, would supply locally grown food.

The charity also advocates that without farmed animals, a vibrant tapestry of new habitats would emerge, including species-rich woodlands and coppice plantations for biofuels and timber. Removing the reliance on chemical and animal-based farming could, they say, play a huge part in steering the planet towards a green and abundant future. With five growers already proud holders of the Stockfree Organic Certification symbol, the availability of what is being termed organic plus’ food, is taking off.

For people interested in sustainable horticulture, the Vegan-Organic Network offers bursaries to help with the costs of a foundation degree course at Glyndwr University, North Wales. There are also work experience opportunities on vegan farms worldwide.

Recently, the charity was awarded by the Vegan Society for Best Vegan Project or Campaign. This also coincided with the launch of the second edition of Growing Green: Organic Techniques for a Sustainable Future by Jenny Hall and Iain Tolhurst, a well-respected handbook for organic growers everywhere.

Home growers, commercial growers and anyone interested in animal rights and the environment are welcome to become supporters and share the vision.

link source: http://positivenews.org.uk/2010/archive/2388/stockfree-farming-gains-momentum/

5. 10 Good Reasons Why Canadians Are Going Organic!
[digest]#1 Keep chemicals off your plate — Most herbicides and many insecticides have been found to be carcinogenic or hormone replicators. Organic certification is the public’s assurance that products have been grown and handled according to strict procedures and without persistent toxic chemical inputs.

#2 Organic food tastes great! — It’s common sense – well-balanced soils produce strong, healthy plants that become nourishing food for people and animals. Many chefs choose organic foods because of superior quality and flavour.

#3 Organic farms respect our water resources — The elimination of polluting chemicals and nitrogen leaching, done in combination with soil building, protects and conserves water resources.

#4 Organic farmers build healthy soil — Soil is the foundation of the food chain. The primary focus of organic farming is to use sustainable practices that build healthy soil microbiology and prevent erosion, creating a legacy of safe, fertile land that can provide for future generations.

#5 Organic farmers work in harmony with nature —Organic agricultural respects the balance demanded of a healthy ecosystem, studies have shown there is more bio-diversity around organic farms. The number of species increased about 30% in organic systems and the number of individual plants and animals was 50% greater on organic farms. Diverse wildlife is encouraged by including forage crops in rotation and by retaining hedgerows, wetlands, and other natural areas.

#6 Organic methods reduce pollution and wasted energy — More energy is used to produce synthetic fertilizers than to cultivate and harvest crops. Organic farmers have led the way, largely at their own expense, with innovative on-farm research aimed at minimizing agriculture’s impact on the environment. Canadian studies have shown that organic farming practices can use as little as half the energy of other farming methods, and are not dependent on fossil-fuel fertilizers.

#7 Protect the health of farmers and children — Farmers exposed to herbicides have six more times the risk of contracting cancer compared to non-farmers. The average child receives four times more exposure than an adult to pesticides in food.

#8 Organic producers strive to preserve diversity — The loss of a large variety of species (biodiversity) is one of the most pressing environmental concerns. The good news is that many organic farmers and gardeners have been collecting and preserving seeds, and growing unusual varieties for decades.

#9 Support a true economy — Conventional food pricing encourages chemical farming, but hidden costs include subsidies and environmental damage. Most organic farms are small, independent family operations of less than 100 acres. Keep rural communities healthy, help small and local organic farmers.

#10 Because you can! — Organic products are finally abundant – every food category has an organic alternative, and there are more and more organic textiles, personal care products and non-food items available every day. Let’s keep this growing, because it’s good for all of us!

link source: http://www.organicbiologique.ca/en/why.html

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Fruit Eden Veganic Farm Newsletter Website: https://fruiteden.wordpress.com/newsletter/
To subscribe to our Newsletter, please send email request to: fruit.eden@gmail.com

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Fruit Eden Veganic Farm — 2011 Growing Season

Fruit Eden Veganic Farm, 2011 Growing Season, Langley

April

dig a ditch with a shovel

May

slug’s dinner

plant based compost to grow vegetables in the summer

green manure seedlings

red kale seedling

June

grow pole beans and field cucumbers side by side

red kales live happily with wild grass

red radish

lettuce enjoys the shade from green manure

pumpkin seedling on compost heap

a row of soy beans

spinach in wild grass

a strong zucchini seedling without any fertilizer input

a radish field thinned by slugs

a deer family eats most of the snow pea, snap pea and shelling pea, beans
but still leave some of them

snow peas keep trimmed to short by deers

spread a row of wheat seeds in april and they look good now

no weeds around wheat

July

a bunny lives in nearby shrub, really enjoys the red clover I grew in
april

my good companion, never eat my vegetables

snow pea, best seller to a vegan restaurant

the strongest zucchini

the giant spinach in the grass

spinach with red clover

sunflower seedlings

pole beans and cucumber together

field peas

the leading zucchini

August

shelling peas

little marvel in red clover

my bare foot on the white clover path

my meditation skid in red clover field

flax with peas

rye and field pea

white clover blooming

cucumber and beans

cucumber and beans without any watering

the row of soy bean turns yellow

September

a small melon

kale, buckwheat, red clover together

flax ready to harvest

sunflower

kale buried by red clover

wild flowers grew in june

wild flower

cabbage in white clover

corn with pole bean

naturally grown oat

naturally grown carrots

naturally grown rye

naturally grown wheat

 

October

carrots

green kale in red clover

a little friend, still playing on the farm in late fall

Posted in Farm News | Comments Off on Fruit Eden Veganic Farm — 2011 Growing Season